Celebrating Elsie Quarterman and the Cedar Glades

If time machines existed, I would want to go back in time and go for a hike with Elsie Quarterman. That’s my first thought every time I see this wonderful photo (circa 1948) of Elsie exploring the Middle Tennessee cedar glades.

Where was she exactly when this photo was taken? Where was she going? What was she looking for? What did she find? Inquiring minds want to know.

Elsie Quarterman in the Middle Tennessee cedar glades (1948).

What I do know is that I would not be writing this newsletter (and would likely have a much different career) if it weren’t for Elsie. On my list of personal heroes, she ranks near the top.

Dr. Quarterman spent much of her career as a biology professor at Vanderbilt University. She had a passion for plants and a special interest in plants found in the cedar glades.

Until Quarterman came along, cedar glade habitat in Middle Tennessee was generally considered wasteland. Due to its thin, rocky soil, you couldn’t build on it. You couldn’t farm it. And good luck finding water. Many people used the glades as a place to dispose of their trash or unwanted items.

Elsie Quarterman and her beloved plants in a greenhouse at Vanderbilt University.

Today when I hike in the cedar glades, I often find remnants – glass, rusted cans, old dolls, eight-track tapes, and more – of what glades were once used for: dumping grounds. It’s an interesting bit of history, and I actually consider it a good teaching tool.

Nowadays botanists and wildflower enthusiasts from all over the country visit the Middle Tennessee cedar glades to see the rare and magnificent plants found there. What an amazing turnaround and wonderful success story. And much of that is thanks to Elsie Quarterman.

Her passion and discoveries certainly assured that many of these rare and unusual plants would be preserved for future generations. Several of these glades are now protected by the Tennessee Division of Natural Areas.

One such place is Couchville Cedar Glade State Natural Area. When I discovered this site 30 years ago, I was fascinated by it. The plants. The nightjars. The limestone. The unusual colors. The silence. The otherworldly feel. It just made me happy. I felt at peace there.

Since then, there’s been no looking back. I am now a 100% certified cedar glade aficionado. Some of us like to call ourselves “glade rats.”

Exploring the cedar glades of Cedars of Lebanon State Park in 1978. Left to right: Ranger Thurman Mullins, Folklorist Bobby Fulcher, Elsie Quarterman, and Ranger Jerry Riddell.

I may never get to go for a hike in the glades with Elsie Quarterman, but I can certainly celebrate her work and accomplishments. And I plan to do so once again this week during the 48th Annual Elsie Quarterman Cedar Glade Wildflower Festival at Cedars of Lebanon State Park.

For the first time ever, the festival will be a four-day event, beginning this Thursday, April 30^th.

Thursday's "Art in the Park" programs include "Making Inks and Dyes from Nature" with Erin Anfinson at 9:30 a.m. and "Journaling in Nature" with Mary Priestly at 1 p.m.

Friday's events feature the always fascinating "Cedar Glade Research Roundtable" and an evening presentation by State Archaeologist Phil Hodge.

Saturday is a full day of hikes and programs, and several organizations will have booths/tables set up inside the Cedar Lodge. If you're interested in wild edibles, don't miss Sharen Bracy's "Edible Plants Hike" as well as all of the delicious samples on her table. Yum, prickly pear jelly!

Also on Saturday, the new booklet “Limestone Cedar Glades: An Introduction to Some Common and Rare Species” will be available inside the Cedar Lodge. We were honored to contribute to this booklet, which was created by MTSU biology professor Kim Sadler. The Tennessee Native Plant Society will be selling it at their table for only $10.

On Sunday, we at NEST will be leading two special hikes. Leslie Anne will be taking a group to Mount View Glade in Davidson County, which is the site where Elsie Quarterman and one of her students rediscovered the Tennessee coneflower back in 1968. And in the evening, I will be leading an exploration at Vesta Cedar Glade called "Nightjars: Birds of Mystery" to search for Chuck-will's-widows, Eastern Whip-poor-wills, and Common Nighthawks.

Visit the Cedars of Lebanon State Park website to get more info or to sign up for any festival programs. Or you can go to https://reserve.tnstateparks.com/register and choose "Cedars of Lebanon" to view programs and sign up.

As for Elsie Quarterman, I’ve barely scratched the surface of who she was and what she accomplished. I recommend investigating her further.

These days she is known mostly for her work in Middle Tennessee’s cedar glades, but she did so much more. For instance, it was her work which led to the preservation of Savage Gulf AND the creation of Radnor Lake State Park. And in 1964, Quarterman became the first woman to chair a department, the Department of General Biology, at Vanderbilt University.

Here's an informative piece about Quarterman from the Vanderbilt University website: https://www.vanderbilt.edu/150/150-stories/innovation-and-research/ecologist-and-educator/

Here’s a resolution of respect from the Ecological Society of America: https://esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1890/0012-9623-96.1.74

And here’s an appreciation from the Association for Women in Science: https://awis.org/resource/remembering-dr-elsie-quarterman-tireless-conservationist/

Finally, here’s a video segment about Quarterman from the PBS Wild Side TV show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vad3qykQH0s

Elsie Quarterman, Vanderbilt University professor of biology, inspects one of the giant poplars in Savage Gulf, while Governor Winfield Dunn, left, and Kenny Dale of the National Park Service, look on, during their 1971 trek into the gulf.

I hope someday someone will write a book about her life and studies and accomplishments. I can't think of a more worthy subject.

All I know is whenever I go for a hike in the cedar glades and find peace and joy there, or make some amazing discovery, I feel like I’m walking in the footsteps of Elsie Quarterman. And that makes me happy.

Thank you, Elsie.

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Speaking of Elsie Quarterman, she would likely be surprised by what we found in mid-April.

A friend of ours, Vikki Vaughan, alerted us that on April 13^th she found a Tennessee coneflower in bloom at Bryant Grove Recreation Area.

Leslie Anne and I visited the area the following day and did indeed find, not one, but five Tennessee coneflowers blooming. It is easily the earliest flowers I have ever seen for this species. I asked some of our state botanists, including Paul Somers, Milo Pyne, and Todd Crabtree, and they hadn't seen one this early, either.

The first Tennessee coneflower of the year, found on April 13th. - Photo by Jason Allen

What does all of this mean? I’m not sure. We did get some earlier than usual warm weather this year, so that surely had an impact. But it was also unusually dry in the glades before this discovery.

Normally the Tennessee coneflowers peak in mid-June, but this year I guess we'll wait and see. Could they peak a bit sooner?

Of course, April is always an exciting month for rare and unusual wildflowers in the cedar glades. Other blooms we enjoyed seeing included Nashville breadroot, Tennessee milkvetch, yellow sunnybell, hoary puccoon, western wallflower, Gattinger’s lobelia, and glade larkspur.

Jason and Leslie Allen of NEST photograph spring wildflowers in the glades. - Photo by Scott Pessoni

May should be eventful, too. Glade species to look for include limestone fameflower, glade savory, Gattinger’s prairie clover, and eastern prickly pear.

Oh, and I can’t forget one special species! It’s a little flower called Quarterman’s hedge-hyssop (Gratiola quartermaniae). Yes, it's named after Elsie Quarterman.

Quarterman's hedge-hyssop is a tiny flower found in the wet cedar glades. - Photo by Jason Allen

This tiny, funnel-shaped flower is cream and yellow with purple veins. Unlike many cedar glade species that grow in dry locations, this one prefers the wet areas above exposed limestone. Look for them in the muck!

I love the timing of this one: It always blooms the week of the Elsie Quarterman festival.

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As for us here at NEST, we had a busy but memorable April. Leslie Anne finished up her Wildflower ID Class with two class field trips.

The first field trip included Flat Rock Cedar Glade and Siegel Glade in Rutherford County. We found such species as yellow sunnybell, Pyne's ground plum, glade larkspur, wild strawberry, Price's wood sorrel, Tennessee milkvetch, glade wild blue indigo, downy phlox, heart-leaved golden alexanders, Carolina vetch, Nashville breadroot, long-styled glade cress, hoary puccoon, glade phacelia, and smooth solomon's seal.

The NEST wildflower class examine plants at Flat Rock Cedar Glade and Barrens. - Photo by Jason Allen

The Rutherford County glades and barrens were magical. Many thanks to Kim Sadler and Lauren May for showing us some special places and for their expertise!

The second field trip was to Short Springs State Natural Area near Tullahoma. Rather than list all of the species found there, we recommend you go for a visit! This is surely one of the most impressive spring wildflower destinations in Middle Tennessee.

Many of you have asked, and yes… we WILL be offering another NEST Wildflower ID Class this summer! Stay tuned for more info and dates.

The NEST wildflower class found the rare yellow sunnybell in the Rutherford County glades. - Photo by Jason Allen

Also in April, we gave a presentation for our friends at the Wilson County Master Gardener Association on cedar glade plants and ecology. It was nice to see some old friends and make some new ones. We were in awe of the enthusiasm of this group, and they are doing such great work in our area! We were also in awe of the food they prepared for the evening. With those types of tasty dishes, they should have no trouble getting future speakers!

On April 17^th, we teamed up with TennGreen Land Conservancy for a hike at Lamar Cedar Glade and Woodlands in Mt. Juliet. Hikers were treated to many unique blooms, including Gattinger’s lobelia, Nashville breadroot, glade phlox, rose verbena, small skullcap, yellow stargrass, maroon climbing milkvine, glade stonecrop, and jack-in-the-pulpit.

The group spotted several interesting plants that weren't yet flowering, including Tennessee coneflower, Tennessee milkvetch, Gattinger's prairie clover, eastern prickly pear, and glade savory.

Rose verbena and Tennessee milkvetch were among the April blooms found in the glades. - Photo by Jason Allen

We also heard an impressive variety of birds, such as prairie warbler, common yellowthroat, northern parula, scarlet tanager, and wood thrush. Trees, shrubs and insects were discussed as well.

Thanks a bunch to Jane Griffin, who has generously hosted many wildflower hikes here over the years. TennGreen's conservation easement of Lamar Cedar Glade and Woodlands permanently protects the largest known privately-owned glade habitat in the area.

Jane is super passionate about sharing her land with others to help people learn about cedar glades. We appreciate you, Jane, and we look forward to exploring with you again soon!

Jason and Leslie Allen of NEST give a presentation for Wilson County Master Gardener Association.

April 22^nd was Earth Day, and it was our busiest day of the year. We spent the first part of the day at MTSU’s “Table Talk for the Earth” event. We had a table set up featuring some of the flora and fauna of Tennessee, and we were fortunate to connect with so many wonderful people.

We were thrilled to see several of our friends at the event, including Outdoor Murfreesboro, Stones River National Battlefield, Tennessee Native Plant Society, Wild Ones Middle Tennessee Chapter, Sierra Club - Middle Tennessee Group, and Cedars of Lebanon State Park.

NEST had a table at the MTSU's "Table Talk for the Earth" event on Earth Day.

Later that evening, we led a Wetlands Night Life hike at Murfree Spring for Outdoor Murfreesboro’s Earth Week Outdoors. It was a splendid evening: perfect weather, a large and enthusiastic group, and lots of wildlife to see and hear!

The group discussed bats, moths and frogs, and then explored the wetlands along the boardwalk. We heard several types of frogs and saw such species as yellow-crowned night heron, American bullfrog, snapping turtle, and muskrat.

American bullfrog seen during our Wetlands Night Life program at Murfree Spring. - Photo by Scott Pessoni

The group pauses to observe wildlife during our Wetlands Night Life hike at Murfree Spring. - Photo by Scott Pessoni

One of the highlights of our Murfree Spring hike was this yellow-crowned night heron. - Photo by Jason Allen

At the end of April, we were featured in a Nashville Mainstreet Media newspaper article by Ken Beck. The article discussed our NEST venture and also the Elsie Quarterman festival. We were so appreciative that they wanted to share our story and spread the word about the festival.

You can read the article here: Mainstreet Media Tennessee/articles/Nature Education Society of Tennessee

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In closing, we hope to see some of you at the 48th Annual Elsie Quarterman Cedar Glade Wildflower Festival! In addition to our two hikes on Sunday, we will be attending the Cedar Glade Research Roundtable on Friday. And on Saturday, we will have a table set up inside the Cedar Lodge to showcase some of the flora and fauna of Tennessee. Stop by and say hello!

Following the festival, Leslie Anne and I will take a short break before giving a presentation for the Davidson County Master Gardeners on May 14th. The topic? Cedar glades, of course! I'm sure Elsie Quarterman would be pleased.

We wish you a joyful month of May!

All the best,

Jason and Leslie Anne